SEWING

STYLEMAKER FABRICS // WINSLOW AND TATE

September 26, 2016

 

I’m super excited to be participating in Style Maker Fabric’s Fall Blog Tour. I’ve been planning to make up the Winslow Culottes by Helen of  Helen’s Closet and the Tate top by Workroom Social for awhile, so I thought this would be the perfect opportunity.

It was super hard to decide which fabrics to use but in the end I went with two rayons. The Tate Top is made up in this black rayon crepe and the Winslow Culottes are sewn up in this tribal print rayon crepe.

Let’s start with the blouse first. The Tate Top is a free pattern put out by Jennifer of Workroom Social. It can be made in a tunic length or cropped length (which I sewed). View A has a more classic racerback and View B has a more angled back silhouette which I went for. I LOVE the cut of this top. I did do a full bust adjustment and raised the underarm by about 1/2″ after doing a muslin. I have plans to make this up into a dress in the spring. Just be warned that this pattern does not have any instructions included (but it is free). I think that most intermediate sewers could figure it out on their own without a problem though.

The black rayon crepe that I sewed this up in is really great. It’s thicker than a rayon challis but still thin and flowy enough for a top. Not see through at all. It does have some natural stretch to it, so keep this in mind when choosing your size.

Now for the Culottes. Helen and I decided to swap our culotte style patterns with one another and blog about them. (Check out Helen’s version of the Emersons here.) I’ve loved seeing everyone’s versions of the Winslows popping up on instagram and couldn’t wait to try them myself. I love that they give the appearance of a skirt which makes them so approachable for a new trend. I made them up in View C which is a midcalf length. I really wanted to do the full length ones, but it felt a little overwhelming on me in a busy print.

The fabric is a really fun, large scale tribal print in rich fall jewel tones. I’m loving these colors right now. The fabric is lightweight and airy, and yet still not see through. If you look closely at the photo on stylemaker fabrics you will notice that the fabric has some crinkles in it like gauze. I like the texture, but the fabric does grow with ironing so take it from me and iron it before you cut out your pattern pieces or your pieces won’t match up (ask me how I know).

I can’t wait to wear these coulottes out of the house. I think they would work well with flats and cardis too for a more everyday look.

 

You can continue on the blog tour tomorrow with Lindsay of Design by Lindsay here or check out the whole tour through Style Maker Fabrics here (there are 13 stops total). Thank you Style Maker Fabrics for including me on your tour. Now I just need it to cool off a bit here so it feels like fall.

OTHER SEWING TUTORIALS

FALL TEACHING

September 15, 2016

I am lucky enough to be doing some teaching and such this fall and wanted to make you all aware of them in case you are interested in attending.

 

Now that I live in Denver I am lucky enough to be close to Fancy Tiger Crafts. It’s such an amazing store and I love attending craft nights and meeting with all sorts of like minded people there. I am going to be teaching two separate workshops there this fall, both of the Hudson pants. This is a great workshop for those of you who want more experience working with knits. Also, since the men’s and women’s patterns have the exact same instructions, this is a great workshop for me too. You can use either of the patterns in the workshop. The dates of the workshops are either Saturday October 22nd, or Sunday November 13th. You can sign up for the classes on their site.

 

I am also going to be teaching a weekend workshop at the Stitch Sew Shop and we will be teaching the Southport dress. I hear that these workshops are so much fun – half learning and sewing and half fun retreat. The workshop is October 7th – the 9th in Alexandria, Virginia and there are still some spots left if you can make it. I am so excited for this weekend. Look here for more information on workshops and how to sign up.

 

I won’t be teaching, but I will be a counselor at Camp Workroom Social this year on October 14th-17th . I am going to be assisting Christine Haynes in her Coats workshop along with Devon of Miss Make. It’s going to be a blast and I can’t wait to go to camp. I think that all of the spots are filled up for this year, but you can still make pjs for the Camp PJ Party to participate if you are not going. And, if you think you might want to attend next year, I suggest getting on the email list because spots go fast.

I hope to meet / see a lot of you as some of these classes this fall. If you have any questions about them please reach out.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING TUTORIALS

OGDEN CAMI DRESS HACK

September 13, 2016

I am so excited about all of the Ogden hacks that I have seen popping up over the past few weeks. I guess that is the beauty of a simple pattern isn’t it? So many possibilites. Here are a few of my fav hacks that I have seen so far –  here, here and here.

I put together a very simple Ogden hack for today where essentially you add a large gathered rectangle to a baby doll type silhouette. It’s very easy and it completely transforms the pattern.

The first thing we are going to do is shorten the cami front and back. I am assuming that if you are making this hack then you already have made this original pattern. If so, try it on and decide where you want the end of the bodice to be and the skirt portion to begin. When I tried mine on, I decided on about 10 inches down from the center V. Then I added 1/2″ to both the neckline and bottom for seam allowance so the total drop at center front was 11 inches. Now mimic the basic shape of the original hem for this new hem at the shortened length.

Line the side seams up of the front and back cami to make sure that they are the same length and make a new cutting line for the back cami just like you did for the front. Note that the back is going to be straighter than the front. The front needs the more curved hemline to accomodate the fullness of your chest.

Now cut along the lines you made.

Cut out two front camis and two back camis on the fold, and your straps. You will not be using the lining pattern pieces from the original cami pattern. This dress will have a fully lined bodice so one of the fronts and one backs will be your lining.

You also need to cut out your skirt pieces. You are going to cut out two identical rectangles. Decide how long you want the skirt and add 1/2″ for the top seam allowance and 1″ for the hem. Cut it according to your preference. I wanted a 26″ skirt so with the seam allowance and hem mine was 27 1/2″ long.

For the width it also depends on how full you want yours (and how wide your fabric is). For reference mine is 43″ wide so I cut it at 44″ wide because of the 1/2″ seam allowance on both sides. So in the end, I cut two rectangles that were 27 1/2″ tall and 44″ wide.

Once everything is cut out you can start sewing. You are going to sew the top portion of the cami up exactly like the instructions except do not hem the outer cami or the lining. It should look like this.

Next, sew the two rectangles together (right sides together) along the side seams at 1/2″ seam allowance and finish in your desired manner. I serged it to keep it simple, but french seams would be a great choice if you want the whole inside of the dress to be perfectly finished.

Now you are going to run two parallel gathering stitches along the top of the skirt. It’s easiest to do two on the front and two on the back, stopping and starting right before and after the side seams.

Gather up the stitches so that the gathering is evenly distributed and the top of the skirt is the same width as the bottom of the cami. With right sides touching, pin the skirt to the main cami (keep the lining up and out of the way). Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance and press all seam allowances up towards the cami.

Separate your lining and press the bottom up (wrong sides touching) by 3/8″.

Bring the lining down towards the skirt and pin the folded edge over the seam where the skirt and main cami meet. You will be completely covering the seam allowance. Pin generously.

On the right side of the dress, stitch in the ditch at the seam where the cami and skirt meet, catching the lining underneith.

Try the dress on the make sure that you like the length and adjust as necessary. Fold the bottom up by 1/4″ and again at 3/4″. Press and Pin and stitch the hem in place.  That’s it.

Here is my version. I decided to make this one middie length although I really want to make another one that is above the knee. I wore this dress this weekend to the farmers market with flats and a jean jacket and it was perfect. I love everything about it.

Here it is without a belt. As you can see it is kinda a baby doll shape. I love it this way as well, and I think when I make a shorter one I will wear it without the belt more often.

That’s it. If you still need the Ogden cami pattern you can purchase it here. Let me know if you have any questions.

SEWING TUTORIALS

OFF THE SHOULDER BLOUSE

September 9, 2016

I loved my off the shoulder Roscoe hack dress so much that I wanted to make a blouse too. I made it according to my instructions in this post, but cut it along the blouse length instead of the dress one this time. I also used a wider elastic (1.25 inch) this time because it’s what I had on hand and I really like the way it looks. I of coarse made a wider casing to accomodate it too.

For the fabric, I used some ivory colored tencel that I bought at Joanns. This fabric is thick enough to not be see through, but still thin enough to have a nice drape. Love this fabric.

Because I wanted this blouse to be a good transitional fall and spring top, I decided to keep the sleeves pretty long. I am hoping that I can get some wear out of it before it gets too cold here.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING SEWING FOR KIDS

INTRODUCING THE MINI EMERSON AND OGDEN PATTERNS

September 7, 2016

I am so excited to be showing you guys the Mini versions of both the Emerson and Ogden patterns today. I have to admit that these crop pants on little girls is my fav thing right now. Not only are they super comfy and good for transitioning to fall, but they are also different and unexpected and just cool. I’m obsessed and so is she.

Lets start with the Mini Emerson pattern. The construction is exactly like the women’s version. There are two views. View A is a wide leg crop pant that hits mid calf. It is great in mid weight fabrics such as linen, chambray, and even quilting cottons. It’s equally great is something lighterweight and flowy.

View B is a pair of shorts with an approximate 2 inch inseam. Just like the crop pants, they have front pleats, an elasticized back waistband and a flat front waistband. The pleats give a lot of fullness to the shorts and without the weight that the pants give, I recommend that the shorts be sewn up in something a little more light weight like rayon, double gauze, and lightweight linen.

The Ogden cami is a simple little pattern with a soft front V, and spaghetti straps over both shoulders. Unlike the women’s version, the kids version has a simple elastic back. This makes it easier to get on and off and move around in. It has a partial lining in the front to finish the neckline. It is best sewn up in lightweight woven fabrics like voile, lawn, double gauze, lightweight linen and rayon. Another plus is that it is an awesome stash buster as it takes minimal fabric. You can even do the lining out of another fabric if you just have a few scraps left over from another project.

I love the two of these pattern together. The simpleness of the Ogden cami is a great balance for the volume of the Emerson bottoms. Both patterns are very easy to sew up and good for beginners. The patterns cover sizes 2T to 10.

You can find both patterns, and more information about them, here. Use the code MINI20 for 20% one or both patterns through the end of the week (expiring Sunday 9/11 at midnight EST). Let me know if you have any more questions.